Chinese food is more diverse than Western eaters might think
In “Invitation to a Banquet” Fuchsia Dunlop celebrates the cuisine’s spread and savour
ABOUT A DECADE ago, this correspondent attended a banquet in Guangzhou. The bird’s nest soup was gentle and slithery, the sea cucumber rich and gelatinous and the fish sparklingly fresh and perfectly steamed. The most memorable dish, however, was the plain white cup of broth served at the end. Made from chicken, probably with ham and dried scallop as well, it was simple, austere and perfect.
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This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “A moveable feast”
From the September 2nd 2023 edition
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